Roman Movie

If you haven't seen "Roman Holiday" with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, please rent it, buy it, or borrow it, and watch it. Audrey Hepburn may have won an Oscar for her performance, but Rome also had a starring role and many of the iconic sites are featured in the movie. 

The Trevi Fountain has starred in more movies than any other fountain I can think of, but it was closed for renovations. People were still tossing coins into the construction site, water or no water.

 Not all fountains are famous, and not all of them work in Rome :(

Thankfully some fountains in Rome worked beautifully:)

 The Spanish Steps were also closed for renovations.

The Bocca della Verità, made famous in the US by the movie "Roman Holiday" was open, but the lines were so long for a photo op with a hand in its mouth, that I simply snapped this one through the gate.

 This cute little red Fiat was parked nearby as if it was waiting for a close up, so I played paparazzi :)

A Small Osteria & A Colossal Monument in Rome

After my trip to Marseille, I learned to find a place for dinner that required as little walking as possible. Osteria dal 1931 was literally one block away from where I was staying. I walked past it and did a double take; the blackboard said they have a special menu at lunch for 10 Euros, or $12 US which includes two dishes, a side and a drink!

I was the first diner in the place at 8 pm, eating with the staff as they got ready for the Roman dinner rush which started as I was leaving at 9pm.

When I first ordered I learned that although their menu is extensive, very few of the items listed are actually available, for example the rabbit, the spinach, and most of the soups were not offered any of the three times I went. One of the specials was a sliced beef dish with arugula and tomatoes that was both tender and savory for 8 Euros or $9 US. 

On a cold rainy night, I chose the one soup available, a pasta and lentil, that had a rich soup base of vegetables and which arrived in a huge bowl. Thankfully it was all I ordered because I couldn't finish the copious serving even though it was a perfect meal for a dreary wet night.

My favorite side dish were the Roman artichokes in lemon, olive oil, and garlic:) They were so good that I ordered them twice and immediately ate them before my main course both times. Depending on how many they have in the kitchen that day, they are either 3 or 4 euros, or $4-5 US which gives you either one or two. If you go to Osteria dal 1931 and order nothing else, order the artichokes!

Their chicory side was very simply steamed and needed something to liven it up, but if you just want plain greens, they will fit your bill.

On my first visit, the owner served me and offered me this purée of tomatoes, potatoes, and garlic, so addictive that I'm glad I didn't taste it until I had eaten my artichokes and pasta because I would have filled up on it alone. It was a very warm welcoming place, and even though they don't speak English, anyone could feel comfortable here using the international language of pointing and smiling. One evening there was a surprise birthday party for a little girl and all the adults hid so when she arrived she was jumping up and down with joy. It's the kind of place that locals go when they don't want to cook at home.

My favorite pasta dish in Rome was Pasta Alla Gricia here for 8 Euros or $9 US, a local version of a bacon and cheese pasta. An Italian friend insisted that if I was going to Rome it should be the one pasta I order, and I am so glad I did! The cured pork jowl was the closest thing I've tasted in Europe to US thick cut smoked bacon! This very generous bowl was easily enough for two, but it was so good I did my best to make a dent in it.

It was a delightful surprise to discover more bacony goodness as I ate about halfway through the bowl, because I realized that most of the guanciale was hidden underneath the pasta, like buried pork treasure! 

A quarter liter (about 2 glasses) of decent red wine here is only 3 Euros or $4 US, but after coming for a few days, they filled my carafe up well past the quarter line mark! Water only comes in a huge bottle for 2 Euros or $3 flat or sparkling, and they charge a 1 Euro or $1.15 cover charge per guest here (normal in many restaurants in Italy). I never spent more than 16 Euros or $18 here for a very generous meal including wine, water, and a main and a side dish at dinner. If you would like to eat at a small family run local Roman place during your stay, get away from the touristy places and hop on the 44 Bus from Teatro Marcello which drops you off literally across the street at the Abate/Ugone/Donna Olimpia stop.

Fortified with food, I headed out to the Colosseo or Colosseum. We call things "colossal" for a reason and this is it!

Save some energy after your visit for the trek back on ancient cobblestones,

the Romans wore flat sandales for a reason :)

St. Peter's Basilica and Square

Today's post is photographic one, so your eyes get to eat today :)

Vatican Museum

After some wonderful pizza at Bonci/Pizzarium, I went to the other attraction in the area, the Vatican Museum. I had made a reservation online before I arrived, and printed out my voucher, so there was literally no wait to get my ticket. It was well worth the 4 Euro (about $4.50) reservation fee to avoid the line that had no reservations. There are some tours that let you skip the line, so unless you literally want to stand for hours waiting to get inside, either make an online reservation or book one of the tours that give you immediate entrance. Vatican City is surrounded by a huge wall and most transit arriving or departing from this City work, including the LED displays on buses, and drivers who will give you instructions on where to get off for your desired destination:) 

(Note that the Roma Pass only includes museums in Rome and this is Vatican City in the Vatican State, not Rome).

You can take the Metro to Cipro for a pizza at Pizzarium, and then walk about 10 minutes, or if you are tired, take a bus from the metro station that gets you closer to the entrance line. Yes, that line is just a small part of the line for entry to the Vatican Museum another two blocks away.

Once you go through security, get your ticket and scan it through the turnstiles, you see this!

A close up at the end of the hallway.

All the ceilings were different.

Even the ceiling above the gift shop was a work of art,

of course, replicas were available as a scarf to take home for about 100 Euros or $110 US.

The museum is massive and you could easily spend all day, so if you are planning on seeing St. Peter's Basilica and Square on the same day, I highly recommend that you take a break and sit down for bit. I saw tired teenagers plopped down on these rare visitor chairs scattered throughout the section of the museum near the gift shop.

You can head to the cafeteria on the ground floor, get a pizza,

and go outside to enjoy the park, but do not sit or walk on the grass, or the Vatican guards will literally chase you off.

By the end I was too tired to walk down the winding steps, as beautiful as they are, so I took the most exquisite wooden elevator to the exit, along with three people in wheelchairs, their family and caretakers, five other tired people, and two Vatican guards. I'm sorry that I didn't get a picture of the elevator, but I am not sorry that I did not take photographs inside the Sistine Chapel, respecting Vatican protocol. Remember that as a tourist you are representing your country, so please be diplomatic and follow the customs of the host.