World Trade Center Memorial

Transformations are inevitable as cities and people adapt to change, some are wonderfully revitalizing like the new shops and restaurants in the Meatpacking district, others are simply more commercial like the chain stores and tourist traps in Times Square. The changes in Battery Park are less noticeable at first glance, with modern high rises and busy thoroughfares bustling with energy as they always have in lower Manhattan.

One World Trade Center is a reminder of transformations that have occurred here on many levels, not all of them physical. Quality of life depends on how you react to challenges and changes. New York City channeled its grief by building the tallest building in the Western hemisphere, a beacon of life standing high above the skyline.

 My last night in New York started with a glass of champagne for $16 at nearby North End Grill.

 I wasn't going to eat the fabulous looking bread,

 but when they offered me a plate of a delicate salmon rillette, I had to spread it on something:)

 Crisp radishes with coarse salt and an anchovy sauce also arrived before my order

of grilled sardines for $16, so fresh and artfully done that I wished I had more room to try another dish.

 Walking over to the Memorial after dinner, the sound of water and the wide open space

 were soothing to the senses, easing the transition from past to present.

Chelsea with Romeo

I rented a place with AirBnB in Chelsea for part of my stay and my wonderful hosts, Kenny and Romeo, made my trip even more fun. The apartment is on the upper floor of this building in the gallery district, with views of the Hudson, and near many bus and subway lines, so getting around town is a breeze. If you prefer to get to your destination directly, the concierge will hail you a cab.

 The lobby is sleek and modern,

 with a waterfall in front of the elevators,

 and even the elevators are designed beautifully.

 A 24 hour gym is in the building and there are sitting areas by an outdoor atrium.

My rental was in the middle of the living area, but my host had his own room, so it was like being in a studio apartment.

 The toilet is HEATED and has a built in bidet:)

 This view of the sun setting over the Hudson is from my bed!

The rental is walking distance (or two stops by bus) from Chelsea Market, so for a quick bite, I went to Mokbar, behind the spice merchant. I was too early for Happy Hour when they have small plates and discounted drinks, but I was so happy to have a place open all afternoon, unlike in Paris when everything closes between lunch and dinner.

I chose the bulgogi rice bowl for $13, which was loaded with grilled crisp beef and vegetables, but I added garlic spinach $2 anyway. It was a big hearty serving and the kimchee was a perfect spicy acidic counterpoint to the rich beef.

I'd never had Tiger beer ($7) from Singapore and was so intrigued by the name I ordered it, and now I think I may actually like a beer enough to order it again! The Gold Medal awarded beer is smooth and rich, a perfect accompaniment to a hearty bowl of beef. The total with tax and tip was about $28, but as I learned in NYC, everything is a bit pricey compared to LA or even Paris. If you're looking for  a bite of something less expensive, my friend from LA suggests the taco stand directly opposite Mokbar which sells $4 tacos that are as close to West Coast tacos as you'll find in NYC.

One of the main reasons I rented a place in Chelsea was because a good friend lives in the neighborhood, so the advantage of being a few blocks away from her place meant we could walk to meet each other at a place like Tia Pol. What better way to start off a reunion than with a glass of Cava? This brut was delicious, so we had two :)

She recommended the crispy artichoke and asparagus salad for $13 to start, and it was much tastier than it looks; the crisp artichoke added a nice earthy texture to the tender romaine and white asparagus, and the lemon vinaigrette perfectly dressed the salad. One person could easily make a meal of this if they weren't very hungry.

Since I love anchovies, I got two of the olive, pepper, and anchovy skewers for $2 each, and they were so good, I forgot to take a photo before eating one:)

 The lamb skewers with Moorish spices at $7 for two were perfect little bites of flavorful meat.

The crispy marinated fish with lemon for $12 was a bigger plate and we were very happy splitting the plate that would've been too much with all the other plates we had ordered.

 She wanted the patatas bravas for $8 with a spicy aioli, and I took a bite just for research:)

 The classic flan for $6 was a smooth sweet way to end the night.

 As night fell on the city, it was time for me to go to bed,

where Romeo was waiting for me :)

NYC Chinatown

For authentic Chinese food, the best bet is usually to go to a city's Chinatown, so while I was in NYC, I went back to a neighborhood that I used to know as a child. Like all of New York, it has changed dramatically, and at the same time pockets of familiarity remain.

 The streets are still lined with fruits and vegetables offered for incredibly low prices,

 especially for exotic fruit like rambutan and dragon fruit.

 Vegetables more familiar to western palates are also a bargain,

 as are vast arrays of shellfish,

 and roasted meats, ready to eat.

No, I didn't eat here, but this place shows how the diversity of New York comes together through the common bond of food.

I was craving beef chow fun, a rice noodle dish which just doesn't taste the same in Paris as it does in the states, so after some research I ended up at Hop Kee. It wasn't until I was at the subterranean entrance that I realized this was the same place I used to go to when I was a child with my family.

 Apparently I wasn't the only one who used to eat here :)

When I walked in they immediately started speaking to me in Cantonese and when they saw the blank look on my face, they gave me an English menu. About 3/4 of the diners were Asian and this place only accepts cash, so if you want an authentic local place, this is a good choice. The beef chow fun for $6.50 was a huge plate of tender beef with bean sprouts, greens, and rice noodles. It didn't need any condiments even though there was an array on the table. 

I ordered the sauteed watercress redolent with garlic for $8.95 to go with my noodle dish, even knowing that there was no way I could finish either plate. The beauty of huge portions in the US is there is always a doggie bag option for leftovers, and I took half of both dishes to go after satisfying my craving for Chinese food.

 On the border to Chinatown is Little Italy,

 and the Manhattan Bridge to Brooklyn,

so there are plenty of places to walk off your meal :)

Chelsea Market NYC

Chelsea Market is both a place to shop and a place to eat, with temptations galore,

 from shops selling every conceivable kitchen gadget,

 to wines,

 and food, both raw and cooked.

 Need spices

 or nuts to add to your recipe? No worries, it's all here.

 Freshly made pastas,

 shellfish,

 sushi appetizers,

 chowders,

 smoked fish,

 or cooked lobsters,

 with a side of caviar,

 or some fresh fish.

 A Japanese television crew was filming a first taste of Maine lobsters as I filmed them :)

 For sweet lovers, there was cake, gelato, and freshly made donuts.

 The hardest choice is where to go next :)