Sunday, July 20, 2014

Versailles to Verjus

When I lived in Los Angeles, all the people who came to visit wanted to go to the same places; Hollywood Blvd, Rodeo Drive, Venice Beach, Malibu, and depending on whether they had children, Disneyland or Universal Studios. Now that I live in Paris, the list of landmarks may have changed, but everyone has the same list of sights they want to visit; Notre Dame, Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triumph, Versailles, and of course the Eiffel Tower.

After four days of walking an average of 7 hours per day, the cobblestones at Versailles would have crippled me, so I dropped off my sightseer and meet her several hours later :) By the time she was ready to leave, it was time for a late afternoon snack, so we walked over to a Pizza Via Venetto. I was not expecting much from a touristy place on a pedestrian street near the rail and bus stations, but when I took a sip of my kir, I smiled and said, "This is great!"
Their salads were also great, with servings that could easily have been shared or been mistaken for a plate served in Los Angeles! Since my friend had spent hours walking, she opted for a chicken salad with potatoes, cheese, eggs, and tomatoes. She finished the plate only because she hadn't eaten all day and because I warned her that there is no such thing as doggie bags in France:)
I chose the more classic ham and cheese salad, and even though I had eaten, I still finished my plate just because it was so good. Considering that both gigantic salads were less than 15 € ($20 US) and they actually used decent wine in my kir, this place is definitely worth a stop if you are sightseeing in Versailles and hungry. The waiter was very personable, even joking with us when he took our picture, so this is definitely not a bad place to recuperate after navigating cobblestones.
An even better place to recuperate if you are spending the day at the Louvre is Verjus*. Once again I dropped off my friend and instead of just picking her up, I actually previewed Verjus with a wonderful glass of Bourgogne and steak tartare. The wines vary and are fairly priced for the quality, but they are pricey for Paris (my glass was 8 € or $12 US).
The steak tartare was one of the best I've eaten, with hand cut meat, complimentary textures, and perky flavors.
When I picked up my friend from the Louvre, she was hungry, so we ordered the creamy burrata mozzarella with pine nuts, salad & cured meat, which was much better than the fuzzy photo. She had never eaten fresh burrata and was instantly enamored, and I was very happy with the cured meat.
This stuffed zucchini blossom on a bed of arugula was incredibly tender and crisp, done to perfection.
The duck meatballs were a nice twist on classic meatballs, very filling and hearty.
Somehow my friend found room for dessert (I don't know where). I honestly can't remember what this was since I was in a food coma by then and I didn't taste it, but she loved it and cleaned the plate! All the plates were under 15 € or $20 US and quite generous portions, so depending on your appetite, this is a moderately priced place to savor some unusual and tasty bites. Everyone spoke English from the staff to the clients, so if you are looking for a comfortable casual place where speaking French is not necessary, this is a great spot. With the Palais Royal literally across the street, you can stroll your meal off in a royal garden!
*Note that the gate from Richelieu closes at night so you may have to enter around the block.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Sweets To Start A Sunny Day

Any day in Paris that begins with blue skies is a reason to celebrate, what better way to inaugurate a good omen than with sweets from La Durée? Of course they are famous for their macarons, and my friend is still raving about the orange blossom one she had (her first), but I had to start my day with something more substantial and a bit breakfast oriented. My friend devoured her macarons as her breakfast appetizer, then had a Bostock, which is an almond pastry. I went with the classic pain au raisin, which was healthier because it had raisins :)

It was a great way to get breakfast on the go when we had many sights to squeeze in on a short visit. The sweetest surprise of the morning was a gentleman who told one of the many beggars who came up to us to leave us alone (coming out of La Durée with bags of pastries automatically makes you a target for people asking you for money). 

After several photo stops (Arc de Triumph, Place de la Concorde, and the Opéra), we were ready for lunch at the very unParisian hour of noon, so since our last stop was the Opéra, I steered us to the Grand Café des Capucines. It's open 24/7 seven days a week, so if you are ever stuck for a place to go on a Sunday, this is a safe bet for decent food if you are starving and your flight just landed at midnight.
The interior is classically art deco and it's been renovated, so it looks a bit fresher. I've been coming here almost as long as I've been coming to Paris. It's not my favorite restaurant, but I always take people who have never been to Paris here just to soak in the atmosphere. The food is not spectacular, but it is good, and the prices are reasonable, with menus of two courses for less than 25 Euros ($30 US). 
The gazpacho with espelette pepper was a refreshingly cool way to whet our appetites, with a touch of heat from the pepper that gave the soup a nice zing. I could have had two bowls of this with some baguette and been perfectly happy.
This may look like salmon, but it is actually rose colored trout over couscous which had accents of apricots, green onions, pine nuts, and raisins in a buerre blanc sauce. I found the accompaniments a bit sweet and the sauce a bit lackluster, but the fish was good and service was excellent. We walked in without a reservation, but if you are eating during regular Parisian meal times or want to sit on the patio during a sunny day, it's best to reserve either online or with a phone call.
After all that food we needed to walk, and not just somewhere touristy, so we headed to the Luxembourg Gardens. We were too big (or old) to climb in the jungle gym, but it was almost as fun to watch the kids.
I suppose we could have sailed some boats, but they were having a race,
 so we contented ourselves with a stroll around the flowers :)

Monday, July 14, 2014

14 Juillet

My first Bastille Day in France :)




Thursday, July 10, 2014

Le Flor en L'Ile & Café des Musée

Le Flore en L'Ile is one of the first places you'll see as you walk or drive to Ile St. Louis on the Quai Orléans, and like every place on the island, they serve Berthillon ice cream. If the line to Berthillon is too long, or it's after 8pm, you can enjoy your cone or cup on this lovely terrace with a view of the Seine. The line on the right was for scoops to go and the line was almost as long as the one at Berthillon.
If you are lucky enough to get a warm sunny day in Paris, take advantage of your treasure and spend some time soaking in the living street theater of life at a café like this one. Since this is a prime location, prices will be higher than places tucked away on a side street, but remember that you can sit all day for the price you pay and some people looked like they had spent the entire afternoon sipping their wine or coffee.
My friend had never been to Paris, so we had to order a quintessential French dish; a ham quiche with salad. She declared it the lightest tastiest quiche she had ever tasted, and loved the simple vinaigrette on the salad. It was a very generous portion and we split it since we just wanted a snack, not dinner.
We came to the island for her to taste Berthillon ice cream, so she got 2 scoops with a caramel sauce, a tuile almond crisp, and whipped cream. This dessert cost 12€ ($16 US), which was more than our quiche, but she declared it was worth every Euro.
Just north of Ile St. Louis is the Marais neighborhood and I decided to introduce her to classic bistro at the Café des Musées. I loved their lamb, but after eating a substantial "snack" earlier, my friend and I both opted for the special fish of the day, a St. Pierre, simply grilled on a plancha, with cauliflower and watercress, served on a bed of tomatoes for 23€ ($28 US). It was a perfect summer dinner, and I drank a lovely generous glass of Chablis for under 6 € ($8 US).
My friend is a dessert lover, so she savored the thick rich chocolate terrine with two sauces for dessert, while I ordered another glass of wine for my dessert. 
Sweet travel tip : a great way spend your first day in Paris is eating at least two desserts upon arrival:)

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Cappuccino, Canal St. Martin, and Pain Des Amis

Unless I'm getting on a plane, I don't get up early, but a friend was visiting who doesn't speak French, so to make sure she got on HER plane, I got up at 6 am! I was definitely in need of great coffee after seeing her off, so I headed over to Ten Belles. This perfect cappuccino almost made me forget that it was barely daylight. It was the best cappuccino I've had in Paris (so far)!
Canal St. Martin can be a desolate place in the winter, but with the lush greenery of summer, even rain clouds couldn't detract from the beauty of this area.
Yes this is a working canal with water locks that open and close.
Some areas are off limits due to the water locks, but there is plenty of walkable waterfront to stroll.
Besides coffee, I was in this area to pick up some Pain des Amis (bread of friends) from Du Pain et Des Idées; this is now my favorite bread and my only regret is that I only bought a quarter loaf instead of a half loaf! Baked in a wood fired oven, the smokiness in the crunchy crust and the long slow rise of the yeast makes the texture of the interior mellow, nutty, and slightly chewy. If you love good slow and low smoked BBQ with a smoke ring crust, this will be your paradigm for bread.
The seven hour process (as opposed to most bakers who only allow a 90 minute rise), the quality ingredients, and the passion of the baker are evident in every delightful bite. Even carrying it home on the metro was a challenge since the smell permeated through the bag enticing me to eat it all the way home. I was not at all tempted by the viennoiseries offered, finding them either too underdone or overdone, but everyone else seemed to clamor for the chocolate banana croissants. They had a line out the door and were already sold out of several items by 8:30 am, so get there early (they open at 6:45am). I am going to set my alarm and buying a whole loaf next time since I've already polished off most of the quarter loaf while researching this post :)

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Sweet Ending at Montmartre

On a rainy gray day in Paris, one of the most fitting places to wander is the Montmartre Cemetary near Sacré Coeur.
If you want to truly explore the grounds, set aside over an hour to see the graves of artist Degas, composer Berlioz, and filmmaker Truffaut, along with 22,000 others covering about 25 acres.












 Paupers have markers throughout,
 some graves are completely covered in fresh flowers.
Nearby are the steps up to Sacré Coeur 
(there's a funicular next to it which you can take for the price of a metro ticket).
This is the only hill in central Paris, so lots of steps throughout this area.
Nice to end the afternoon with something sweet, like a glass of rosé and a waffle with fresh fruit at Le Pain Quotidien :)